This small-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir is dry, elegant and may be deceptively simple in its youth. It feels delicate now, almost fragile, with the suggestion of barely ripe cherries and cola that's been left out overnight so it loses its spritz. It's a wine of nuance, not power, and could easily develop dramatically over the next six years.

Sleek and savory, trim, with spicy herb, dried currant, tar, earth and mineral. Tightly wound yet complex, and ending with tannins, fruit and traction. Drink now through 2012.